Perfect for: Realizing life is a marathon, not a sprint; Appreciating that there is more to life than your career
Length: 447 pages
Depth: Easy read, but contains a lot of surf terminology and vocabulary
This is a memoir about the authors life. It recounts the adventures he took and places he lived. He was an avid surfer, and his journey brought him to some of the best surf breaks in the entire world. Each chapter recounts a different location and phase of his life.
All the Feels:
Jealous that I didn’t grow up in the 70s. Maybe the grass is always greener on the other side, but it seems like people were more adventurous and free-spirited in the 70s. You did not have to have your life figured out. “Finding your way” seemed to be more acceptable, especially without the constant peer-to-peer comparison via social media.
My Main Takeaway(s):
Don’t rush into getting married and moving to the suburbs, there will be plenty of time for that. Be adventurous and take chances, especially when you are young.
Do things that place you outside your comfort zone. While it may not always be sunshine and rainbows, pushing your limits will force you to learn and grow.